in short: Pasta at Pophams (Hackney) is the best I’ve eaten in London, the closest in taste and texture to that I’ve eaten in Italy. The menu is diverse and feels original, rather than copying more well known Italian dishes. The dining experience is wonderful, the staff are extremely knowledgeable and their bakery is well worth a visit too.
A seasonally-changing menu, with a good balance of flavoursome vegetarian and meat dishes. Most pasta dishes are filled pasta parcels, delicately folded and most are served with a light, buttery sauce. My favourite dish was the triangolotti with carrot, goats’ cheese & chervil salsa verde – I hadn’t imagined that carrot would go well with pasta but every element melted in my mouth. I was also blown away by the sourdough & maple butter and the orrechione with cruschi peppers: a simple thick pasta with a smokey sauce.
I didn’t have room for pudding, but we were seated in front of the chef plating up a fig brioche with a caramelized sugar coating; I walked home cradling my belly.
Pophams Bakery is, as implied, a bakery. It began serving pasta in 2019 on weekends only – it serves pastries, sandwiches, tartlets and coffee in the daytime. There’s a branch in Islington, but only the larger Hackney branch serves pasta. The pastries are incredible, a favourite is the schlossberger and marmite swirl but they are constantly releasing new flavours that I’m desperate to make the journey across London to try (looking at you, fig walnut & cheese).
Situated on the side of London Fields away from Broadway market. Easily reached from London Fields or a 25 minute walk from Haggerston. There’s seats outside and in, or you can grab a pastry to takeaway.